Birding in Sri Lanka

A guest blog by ETG clients Steve and Joanna

The richness of bird life was a great surprise to us on a trip to the north of Sri Lanka in late February and early March 2022. We are not obsessional birdwatchers and the trip was a varied one taking in not just wildlife, but also local culture, religion, history and food. However, we always try to identify what we see as this gives us a much deeper understanding of what is going on around us.

Our planned bird encounters included visits to Wilpattu and Gal Oya National Parks. By the way, there are plenty of others as well. There were also many chance encounters by the roadside as well as around our hotels away from the cities.

Wilpattu National Park

Wilpattu National Park in the north west is forested with clearings for lakes and reservoirs. Visits are only allowed by standard stay-on-the-jeep safaris. These brought great sightings of waders and water birds with plentiful raptors overhead. Although staying on the jeep is not ideal for seeing smaller forest species, it was still well worthwhile.

Wilpattu is primarily geared up for seeing leopards even though there are not many of them. We found the key to enjoyable bird watching was to convince our guides that leopards were not our main priority. Once we got that message home, and it was not easy, they took us off the usual busy ‘leopard trails’. Instead, we went northeastwards around the Mahawewa reservoir. It was here where we had a five-minute encounter with an Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher, the so-called jewel of the forest – brilliant!

We stayed at ‘The Ibis’ which is just outside Wilpattu park. The atmosphere is ‘safari lodge’ and the owner and son are avid birders. The Ibis had its own rich collection of birds living in the surrounding woodland and farms as well as on its own lake. This was the only place we saw a Lesser Florican which, in our bird guide, does not occur in Sri Lanka.

Around Jaffna

Moving northwards, our next bird hotspot was the area of islands and lagoons south of Jaffna city. Kayts and Punkudutivu Islands are easily reached by causeways from Jaffna. Really, it is difficult to go wrong here with a huge variety of birds living on roadside lagoons, mudflats and farmland. Also, while crossing the first causeway to Kayts Island we spotted the distant pink haze of a flock of flamingos in the lagoon.

Our local guide knew the drill. We U-turned to Jaffna’s fish harbour and arranged an impromptu boat trip to take us out to the birds. We kept about 100m away from the flock in the shallow water.

It was a great sight for a well-spent 3000 rupees, about £10.

Journey down the northeast coast

The journey down the northeast coast passed many lagoons and estuaries as well as frequent army posts, a legacy of the civil war. Apart from freshwater species, the main seabirds seemed to be terns: Caspian, Great Crested, Whiskered and Little. Amongst these were solitary large guls. Possibly these were Caspian, Heuglin, or steppe guls, we were never able to sort these out.

Gal Oya National Park

Inland, Gal Oya was our second national park. We had chosen this as a contrast to Wilpattu for its position in the foothills of the central highlands of the island. We took a boat safari on the Senanayake Samudra, a large man-made reservoir.

The water is dotted with small islands with some having crowded breeding colonies of Black Headed Ibis, Cormorants, and Herons. We also had a guest appearance of a Crested Hawk Eagle here. This is a bird with real ‘attitude’.

The surroundings of our accommodation, Gal Oya Lodge, also had many species. Quite by accident, we even saw a second Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher by a roadside shrine. However, the highlight at Gal Oya Lodge had to be a Sri Lankan Frogmouth sitting on its nest of moss and spider webs.

This bird is extremely well camouflaged. In fact, on an earlier trip we were almost face to face with one but only saw it when it blinked.

In the end we saw more than 160 species plus the inevitable mystery birds. Sri Lanka and Sri Lankans were warm and welcoming and we shall return there in the not too distant future.

Thanks to Steve and Joanna for sharing their incredible story and images of their time in Sri Lanka. They travelled with Experience Travel Group Feb/March 2022.

We’ve added our own take: If Sri Lanka were a music festival, the birds would be headlining – with raucous, feathered performances that’ll have you reaching for the binoculars, not the earplugs.
This little island in the Indian Ocean might be famed for its ancient ruins and palm-fringed beaches, but it’s also a birdwatcher’s wonderland. Kingfishers, eagles, and a whole suite of winged wonders make their homes here, and you’re invited to come and see the show. Pack your camera (and patience), and let’s take a closer look at Sri Lanka’s best birding spots.

Best Birdwatching Spots in Sri Lanka

Sinharaja Forest Reserve: The Bird Buffet

Welcome to the rainforest where the trees are tall, and the birds are even taller tales. Sinharaja, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is where you’ll find Sri Lanka’s most famous feathered residents. Keep your eyes peeled for the Sri Lanka blue magpie – it’s like spotting the celebrity at the party. Meanwhile, the red-faced malkoha struts about with all the confidence of a fashionista on the runway. But don’t let the junglefowl’s name fool you – these birds are far from basic chickens.

Bundala National Park: Flamingo Headquarters

Down on the southeast coast, Bundala’s wetlands are where the cool kids (aka flamingos) hang out. But it’s not all pink feathers and leggy elegance. Painted storks swoop overhead while pelicans and spoonbills poke about the lagoons. If you’re lucky, you might even spot the white-bellied sea eagle giving a masterclass in gliding over the waves. Expect over 200 bird species vying for your attention – the bird equivalent of a Glastonbury line-up.

Yala National Park: Where Leopards and Hornbills Share the Stage

Yes, Yala is famed for its leopards, but while you’re waiting for one to make an appearance, the birds are doing their best to steal the limelight. Indian rollers flit through the air with a flash of turquoise, and Malabar pied hornbills seem to turn every tree into a stage. Raptors like the crested serpent eagle keep a watchful eye from above, ensuring no small rodent has a peaceful day.

Kitulgala: Riverbank Rendezvous

Kitulgala is a serene little spot famous for its scenery and water sports, but the birds here are worth a visit too. As you meander along the Kelani River, you might just catch a glimpse of the Sri Lanka green pigeon tucking into wild fruits. Keep an ear out for the crimson-fronted barbet and, if you’re particularly lucky, the chestnut-backed owlet might grace you with an appearance. Kitulgala’s birds are quieter about their fame, but no less deserving of admiration.

Colombo Wetlands: An Urban Birdwatching Break

Who said city life is for the birds? Well, in Colombo’s wetlands, that’s quite literally the case. While the traffic honks and tuk-tuks putter nearby, the wetlands are an unexpected oasis for birdlife. Black-crowned night herons, pintail snipes, and an array of other water birds call these urban marshes home. Forget skyscrapers – it’s all about the egrets and herons here.

Horton Plains: Birdwatching on Cloud Nine

Up in the central highlands, where mist clings to the trees and the air feels just that bit crisper, Horton Plains offers a different birding experience. The montane forests here are perfect for spotting some of the island’s rarer species, like the yellow-eared bulbul or the shy Sri Lanka whistling thrush. And then there’s the Sri Lanka wood pigeon, cooing away like a very laid-back DJ setting the vibe.

Udawalawe National Park: Raptors’ Delight

If your dream safari involves a few more wings and talons, Udawalawe is your go-to. The skies are dominated by the likes of the crested hawk-eagle, keeping an eye out for prey, while the grey-headed fish eagle expertly spots dinner from afar. Large waterbirds like the Eurasian spoonbill make this park a fantastic spot for migratory bird sightings too. Bring your best zoom lens.

Time to Take Flight?

Sri Lanka’s birdlife is as colourful and diverse as its landscape. Whether you’re trekking through the rainforests of Sinharaja or quietly waiting for the next bird to appear in the Colombo wetlands, you’ll quickly realise this island is a birdwatcher’s dream. So lace up those boots, grab your binoculars, and prepare for an unforgettable avian adventure.