Before setting off on their 16-day tailor-made tour of Kerala, ETG travellers Howard and Jacqueline wondered if ETG’s focus on immersive travel might lead to a conflict with the couple’s preference for high-end luxury. They needn’t have worried. Here’s why, in Howard’s own words:
Many years ago we spent three hectic, wonderful weeks on a private tour of Rajasthan. This time, on our first holiday with ETG, we were keen to explore Kerala at a more leisurely pace. James at ETG took our hopes on board, including our admission that we like to be cosseted in the most luxurious hotels. After much debate, he came up with a bespoke itinerary he called ‘Relaxed Kerala’. It seemed perfect. To be honest, we weren’t that bothered about the tour’s immersive elements, we were more attracted by the promise of calm, understated luxury.
The first halt on our tour, an opulent secluded villa beside the Periyar river, more than met our expectations of luxury. With exclusive use of the villa, hosted by a manager and chef, we savoured the tranquil setting, silent apart from the calls of exotic birds and the swishing sound of monkeys jumping from branch to branch among the trees.
Our first brush with immersion (literally) came during our stay, when we spied local men immersing themselves beneath the surface of the river. From our vantage point aboard a rowing boat with a crew of two, we watched as the divers scooped up buckets of sand from the river bed and tipped it into their boats. Apparently, this is a (barely legal) local custom to acquire quality building sand at no cost.
As we headed back to our villa, and another delicious dinner, we watched women washing clothes at the water’s edge and men taking a river bath. This confrontation with the realities of local life made us appreciate the villa’s sumptuous surroundings even more.
A few days later, our expert driver took us to the Munnar Hills, high in the Western Ghats, where we stayed at a hidden-away resort with a well-deserved ‘Deluxe’ rating. The promised immersive experience came when we found ourselves buried up to our waists in tea bushes. Amid a vast tea plantation, a tea-plucker handed me her shears and beckoned me to have a go. To my shame, Jacqueline shot a video of my dismal attempt. A private tour of the tea factory, with a cuppa, of course, was the perfect finale to our day out.
Next stop: three nights in Cochin, Kerala’s vibrant capital. Our roof garden suite in a grand residence dating back to 1755 faced the old Parade Ground, just a short stroll from the seafront and its iconic Chinese fishing nets. On our day of arrival, a private sunset cruise gave us our bearings and a pair of perfectly-mixed margaritas at the historic Brunton Boatyard enlivened our return to dry land. After breakfast on the following day, a knowledgeable guide escorted us on a walking tour of Fort Cochin, the city’s old quarter, mixing interesting information with personal insights not found in guide books. We felt suitably immersed in Cochin’s chaotic charm.
James’ itinerary for our third day promised ‘a day of hidden cultural gems with visits to protected local industries’ so we weren’t sure what to expect. Our first stop, beyond the city, was a sprawling palace built in 1865 as the official residence of the Cochin Maharaja. We found the museum quite fascinating but the throngs of visiting schoolkids regarded Jacqueline and I as the most arresting exhibits. They delighted in practising their English skills and insisted on taking photos with us.
After a brief stop at an ancient temple (obligatory on all overseas trips) the guide directed Prem, our driver, towards a building that seemed an unlikely stop on the tourist trail. In outhouses behind a private home, we discovered a food production business run by three women. Using coconut flour as the main ingredient, they fashioned dough into various shapes then tossed the bite-sized chunks into a frying pan on an open fire. Once cooled, the crisp-like snacks were packed into branded bags ready for delivery to local shops. Impressively, this cottage industry wasn’t just a photogenic tourist trap – the actual products being manufactured in bulk elsewhere – this was the real HQ. Similarly, the pottery we visited later in the day felt totally authentic. No gift shops. No pressure to buy anything. Just insights into skilled artisans at work.
That evening, during a memorable meal in the garden of the Old Harbour Hotel, we considered ETG’s promise to ‘share unexpected discoveries and confound preconceptions’. We agreed that this promise had certainly been kept.
From the buzz of the city to the still calm of Kerala’s backwaters. Our houseboat, crewed by a captain and chef, was clearly at the top end of the luxury scale. With two nights on board, our skipper could steer clear of other craft and find peaceful moorings away from the masses. A pleasant surprise came at the first berth, when we were invited aboard a small wooden boat with a local man at the helm. As he steered us through narrow channels at dusk, he pointed out the colourful birds among the trees lining the banks. He didn’t speak English, but his obvious love of the natural world spoke volumes.
After docking on our second day, the captain took us on a walking tour of a waterside village while our chef prepared a grand lunch presented on huge banana leaves. It was his birthday and he proudly took a photo of his lunch and his diners to send to his mum up north. At this point we realised that the flocks of ducklings we’d seen during our cruise were not wild, but farmed and destined for the cooking pot. We graciously left the duck dish untouched.
En route to our final stop, a high-end beachside resort, we realised that our Kerala holiday was actually five holidays in one. A riverside retreat. A tea plantation excursion. A city break. A river cruise. A restful beachfront stay. (Although we found our villa’s private pool more alluring than the beach.) We also agreed that the five elements of our tour had been delivered in exactly the right order. Thanks James.
Looking back, our Kerala experience confirmed that luxury (not the glitzy, superficial sort, but genuine understated luxury) and deep, authentic immersion can happily live together. In fact, with careful planning, they can complement each other.
After every great adventure, there’s a story. Huge thanks to Howard for sending in his. We’d love to hear from each and every one of you in our ETG community if you have a travel story to share. Get in touch by emailing [email protected].
Howard Fletcher is a freelance advertising copywriter, specialising in the promotion of premium products. He writes coffee table books, advertisements, brochures and websites. (He was genuinely on holiday with us – not on assignment!).
TEMPTED TO EXPLORE CALM KERALA?
Here’s an ETG holiday idea: Relax & Rejuvenate in Kerala
Please get in touch on 020 7924 7133 .
Alternatively, fill out an online enquiry form to start your journey.