That loss became my mission: to document, celebrate, and preserve Sri Lankan food culture through writing, photography, podcasts, and festivals.
Sri Lanka has a rich culinary heritage due in part to its abundant and varied biodiversity of plants and animals, along with easy access to freshwater fish and marine life. As well as Singhalese and Tamil cuisines, Sri Lankan food has been influenced by the movement of people from the Indian subcontinent, trade (Arabic and Malay (via Indonesia)) and its three waves of colonisation, Portuguese, Dutch and British.
With Experience Travel Group, I was able to dive deep into this extraordinary food culture. It was my chance to be a tourist in Sri Lanka and explore the country in a way I had never done before, while staying in locally run and owned boutique hotels, houses and retreats. It was a meaningful travel experience in so many ways.
I discovered that Sri Lanka isn’t just a holiday destination. The country is a living, breathing blend of cultures.. Every meal tells an incredible story, whether you’re eating food cooked in a clay pot on an open wood fire or at a world-class beachside bar.
Join me as I take you on my culinary food tour of Sri Lanka.
You also can listen to my interview with Sam Clark, the Co-Founder of ETG.
Photo credit: Ranji Thangiah Photography
The Mudhouse: Where Jungle Meets Farm-to-Table Luxury
Two-and-a-half hours from Colombo, past the urban sprawl of Chillaw, a dusty red path leads to the Mudhouse, a sanctuary of lotus flower-filled lakes, coconut palms and jungle birdsong.
Have no fear, these aren’t rustic huts; they’re luxurious mudhouses built from termite mud bricks, sealed with elephant dung, with four-poster beds and yes, solar-powered wifi is available on tap.
The true magic is their farm-to-table concept. Each meal is harvested that morning from the surrounding land. The kitchen is commanded by Chef and his team, who are masters of open-fire claypot cooking, a village mainstay, where curries simmer over wood fire.
Here I tasted gotu kola kanda, a savoury green herbal porridge, and ingredients I’d never previously encountered: pea aubergines and lotus rice. The food flows with abundance from the kitchen, and believe me, you won’t be able to say no to Chef, so be ready to eat!
Don’t miss: A cooking class with Chef to master claypot techniques, and a grounds tour with Kumar Mahendra to learn the true ethos of the Mudhouse.
Image credit: Abhishek Gunaratnam
Horapothola Estate: Inside Sri Lanka’s Coconut Triangle
Sri Lanka is built on coconuts, and the coconut triangle is its beating heart. Horapothola, a 50-acre functioning coconut farm, was once a British colonial retreat and is now under the ownership of the Fernando family.
Horapothola is a study in colonial elegance, with its dark teak furniture laced with cane, hand-embroidered linen. A 300-year-old araliya (temple tree) stands proud on the lawn, the perfect spot for a morning toddy or afternoon tea.
The cooking class was transformative. We harvested passion fruit leaves from the kitchen garden for mallum (traditional stir-fried greens), cooking everything on a century-old open fire.
Village excursions revealed thriving markets and hand-shelled cashew nut factories, while a coconut factory demonstrated how every part of this vital crop is used.
Insider tip: Take the bullock cart ride around the estate’s grounds for the full experience. If you get the chance, take a trip to the village market.
Photo credit: Ranji Thangiah Photography
The Road to Nuwara Eliya: Ever-Changing Weather and Glorious Views
As the road winds upward, brash heat gives way to pleasant summer temperatures. It’s perfect for this Brit from London, but the locals donned jumpers and woolly hats! Fruit stalls further down the hill, which were selling pineapples and papaya, were now offering carrots and cabbages.
Stop at roadside stands for freshly-made hot off the griddle pol roti. It’s the simplest flatbread of water, flour, coconut, and salt, cooked to perfection. I promise you, it will be the best you’ll ever eat (no fancy restaurant will match this!). Try a piping hot kola kanda (green herbal porridge) served with jaggery to counter the herbs’ bitterness. It might take some getting used to. It’s Sri Lanka’s superfood, and it’s worth persisting with!
Must-see detour: Ambuluwawa Tower, a gleaming white, cloud-piercing spire that offers breathtaking panoramic views.
Photo credit: Ranji Thangiah Photography
Nuwara Eliya: Little England Nestled in the Hills
After five-and-a-half hours of driving, Nuwara Eliya welcomes you with colonial charm. Founded by British explorer Samuel Baker in 1846, “Little England” was where civil servants and planters retreated to and maintained their British pastimes: fox hunting, polo, golf, and cricket.
I stayed at Ferncliff bungalow, surrounded by manicured gardens with cosy nooks for serene moments. Our butler, Bernhard, lit a fire to fend off the September chill and served an afternoon tea; there was no need to venture out.
Insider tip: Take the walking tour, download the app onto your phone to see the very English post office, the Grand Hotel (where you can have a grand afternoon tea), and the golf and race courses.
Image credit: Abhishek Gunaratnam
Haputale: Discovering Bohra Cuisine
A short drive from Nuwara Eliya brings you to Haputale’s modern bungalow with stunning terrace views that stretch across hills to the sea. But the real attraction is the thaal cuisine experience. This is an intimate introduction to Bohra cuisine from Sri Lanka’s Muslim Bohri community, descendants of Yemeni traders.
My gracious host Munira guided me through the ritual: washing hands, tasting salt to cleanse the palate, then alternating between savoury and sweet dishes from the circular silver platter (thaal) symbolising community and sharing. The chickpea betata (chickpeas in spiced tamarind sauce), biryani, and mutton bone broth are now on my must-recreate recipe list.
Image credit: Abhishek Gunaratnam
