by Guest Post

A close encounter with a Veddha chief in Sri Lanka

Deep within Sri Lanka’s Knuckles Mountain Range lies a rare opportunity to meet the island’s indigenous Veddha people. In this blog, we recount a remarkable encounter with a Veddha chief, offering a glimpse into a culture that has lived in harmony with the forests for centuries.

Team ETG’s Jamie recently returned from a recce deep in Dumbara Kanduvetiya (the mist-laden Knuckles Mountain Range). Discover what happened on his adventure in this rarely-visited, remote part of Sri Lanka when he stayed at ETG’s latest off-the-beaten-path find (Eagle’s Crest Homestay)…

There he stood.

A small man with a weathered but happy disposition and long grey beard, wearing nothing but a sarong and holding a small axe.

Not exactly who I was expecting to greet me on my arrival at Eagle’s Crest.

Sid, the homestay host, introduced him to me. “Meet Sudalage Atho, the Veddha Chief,” a leader of Sri Lanka’s indigenous Veddha people. Despite not speaking any English, Sudalage greeted me warmly with a smile and traditional two-handed handshake.

These two were to be my trekking guides, and all-round Knuckles experts, for the next few days. What a privilege.

That first evening, we chatted over a delicious homemade dinner chased down with beers and Arrack. Sid filled me in on the history of the Veddha tribe and their plight. They originally lived entirely off the land, but when the government declared their homeland a national park, they were displaced. Now, they rely on handouts and the small income they make selling honey (which we buy at ETG for exclusive referral gifts), so supporting this is more important than ever.

In the morning, I pulled back my bedroom curtains to an incredible view — the brightest greenery and curved mountain peaks that live up to their name, The Knuckles. Quite the reveal after arriving in the dark the evening before!

Next, I fuelled up on a hearty breakfast of hoppers (my favourite), and then it was time for us to go trekking in the mountains. Still just in a sarong and barefoot, the Veddha Chief walked a little behind Sid and me at his own pace but was completely unfazed by the steep hills and thick undergrowth.

The trek itself was about 14km — starting on a mountain road, cutting through a steep, overgrown shortcut, then following dirt paths and forest trails down towards a tiny village. It was gloriously quiet and remote.

For the first half, I didn’t see another soul. Then, out of nowhere, a man appeared, walking towards us with a rucksack, wearing smart shoes, a tucked-in shirt and belted trousers. Curious, I asked Sid who he was.

“That’s the postman,” he said.

Turns out, this man walks 20km a day, six days a week, delivering letters to families scattered across the unspoiled mountains.

That’s what makes the Knuckles so special. No crowds, no rushed itineraries — just time, space, and the kind of encounters you don’t plan for but never forget.

Would I do it again? In a heartbeat — though maybe with a little less beer and arrack the night before…