Stepping Aboard Vietnam's Vietage Train

On arrival at Nha Trang station, someone immediately took my luggage off my hands, and I was handed a paper ticket with my name on it.

I can’t remember the last time I held one of those. We were welcomed into a cool waiting room for an iced drink while the train came in.

The Vietage is just one carriage that’s hooked onto the Reunification Express, the historic line running the length of Vietnam from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). We’re big fans of this railway at ETG, and this is definitely the most comfortable way to experience it. Once the carriage was attached, our host Dai Vy ushered us on board with a massive grin, and I couldn’t wait to see inside.

Along both sides are booths for two, separated by rattan partitions but still open enough to feel social and buzzy. We walked down to the horseshoe-shaped bar at the end of the carriage for our first tipple.

It all felt a bit Agatha Christie. I half expected Poirot at the bar.

Getting the lay of the land

It’s 215km from Nha Trang to Quy Nhon (about a five-hour trip by train), and it’s a brilliant way to see how the country actually fits together.

For a lot of the journey, I just sat back and watched everyday life go by among the paddies as the tracks rattled underneath me. We passed duck farms, lotus ponds, wading cranes, and water buffalo, with giant banana leaves almost brushing the window and cyclists waiting at the rail crossings every so often.

Then the mountains of Phu Yen province came into view behind some mist before the big blue bays of the South China Sea opened up.

You just don’t get a feel for any of that from the air. (Many travellers skip this stretch altogether, flying over the central coast rather than going by road or rail between Nha Trang and Da Nang).

Sitting down for a proper afternoon tea

Before the journey, they ask what sandwiches you’d like (there’s a vegan menu too), so I knew afternoon tea was on the cards. What I hadn’t expected was how Vietnamese it would be. It looks like a classic British afternoon tea, but almost every course has a local spin on it. It’s a hard thing to get right, and they’ve mastered it.

To start, the chefs had prepared poached Bai Dai lobster and Da Lat caviar on homemade blinis. After that came the tea tower of sandwiches, including a mini banh mi, then a passion fruit éclair and a Quy Nhon-style cake.

Even the scones had a Vietnamese twist: instead of the standard strawberry, the clotted cream came with kumquat jam.

Squeezing in a massage and rolling into Quy Nhon

Just when I thought I couldn’t get any more doted on, I was led to the little treatment area for a head and shoulder massage.

By the time I got back to my booth, we were nearly at Dieu Tri, the last stop. I stepped off completely relaxed and ready for the seafood and white-sand beaches of Quy Nhon, a short drive away.

In this area, we rate Anantara Quy Nhon Villas for couples or Maia Resort Quy Nhon for families, and Zannier Bãi San Hô nearby in Phu Yen is a real gem of a beach retreat.

If you’d like a proper taste of everyday Vietnam, take this train in standard class. Our Vietnam specialists Chione and Holly have both ridden it that way, among families pointing at the paddies and men cracking open cans of Huda beer. But… you may find the odd pair of bare feet in your periphery. If you want an exclusive booth with your own window, afternoon tea and free-flowing drinks poured by slick (but not at all stuffy) staff, travel in the Vietage by Anantara. We’d especially recommend it if you’re marking a special occasion.

ETG Traveller, Neil Hind, who travelled through Cambodia and Vietnam with us, found it every bit as good as he’d hoped.

Wondering how best to do it?

Our Vietnam Train Odyssey itinerary follows the Reunification Express the length of the country.

Or talk to the Travel Team to build the Vietage into your trip.