For travellers keen to experience India‘s cultural and natural treasures without being part of a pack of tourists, we always recommend Madhya Pradesh. Recently back from this underrated Princely State, Team ETG’s Augusta (Gusta, for short) shares what makes it so special…
All the riches of Rajasthan. But none of the tourist crowds.
Visit Madhya Pradesh – the underdog of India's Princely States.
Everyone knows that when you look up ‘Rajasthan’, you’re hit with an explosion of its riches: majestic forts, opulent palace hotels, tiger-prowled wildlife sanctuaries, intricate handicrafts, and of course, fabulous food.
Incredible? Absolutely. But over the years, its global popularity has turned these mesmerising highlights into tourist magnets.
And, let’s be honest, nothing kills the magic quite like elbowing through bus loads of tour groups. After all, as we like to say at ETG: it’s a truth universally acknowledged that tourists hate other tourists!
I’ll let you in on a secret. If you head a little east of Rajasthan, you’ll find another princely state – Madhya Pradesh.
Right in the green heart of India, this lesser-visited region has similar treasures to Rajasthan with a delightful twist: hardly any crowds. At all.
I was lucky enough to go in October (ETG insider tip: this is one of the best times to visit India, as it’s just ahead of peak season and it’s not too hot) and can confirm that I had many of its marvels practically all to myself and my guide.
Mighty Sandstone Forts
From Amber (Amer) Fort near Jaipur to Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur, the regal forts of Rajasthan and their storied histories are a huge attraction of this state. While these are impressive, you’re likely to be part of a pack while exploring.
Arguably the most magnificent fort is found in Gwalior, Madhya Pradesh (Mughal Emperor Babur nicknamed it the “pearl amongst the fortresses of India”).
With commanding views over the city, this sandstone spectacle was built during the reign of Raja Man Singh Tomar (1486–1516) with imposing turrets and bastions.
What sets Gwalior Fort apart from the rest is that it’s decorated with fabulous aquamarine frescoes of animals: ducks, elephants, tigers, peacocks, parrots and more.
You can step behind its imposing walls to wander the remnants of an intricate palace with music halls and underground chambers as a guide unravels its intriguing history, passed through the hands of 11 different dynasties. And best of all, you’ll be one of the few – if not only – tourists here.
Soak up its magnificence yourself on this journey through Madhya Pradesh.
Regal Palace Hotels
Many flock to Rajasthan to live like royalty while staying at palatial hotels like Rambagh Palace in Jaipur, the Taj Lake Palace in Udaipur and Umaid Bhawan Palace in Jodhpur. Again, these are all wonderful but you’ll likely be surrounded by Western tourists.
Madhya Pradesh has its own fair share of regal hotels: there’s Ahilya Fort in Maheshwar (a firm ETG favourite that, trust me, will live long in the memory, thanks to its atmospheric setting overlooking a sacred river, gorgeous suites and the kindest staff).
Jehan Numa Palace in Bhopal is another gem: this heritage hotel owned by the Bhopal Royal family combines colonial architecture with modern comforts like marble bathrooms and soft beds.
And then, last but not least, there’s Taj Usha Kiran Palace in Gwalior – crafted by the illustrious HH Maharaja Jayaji Rao Scindia over 140 years ago. 
Experience the joy of staying in these palaces
Tiger-Prowled Wildlife Sanctuaries
Of course, a great excitement of visiting Rajasthan is having the chance to see the beautiful Bengal tiger in the wild – most famously, in Ranthambore National Park.
In our eyes, we feel as though Ranthambore is becoming more and more like Yala National Park in Sri Lanka in terms of being a victim of its own success and becoming jammed with jeeps (one of my naturalist guides said it’s not unusual for a tiger sighting to be swamped by 20 – 30 vehicles).
Luckily, Madhya Pradesh is home to more appealing alternatives like Bandhavgarh National Park (which has the highest density of tigers in all of India), Kanha National Park and Pench Tiger Reserve.
I was fortunate enough to set off on safaris in Satpura Tiger Reserve and Bori National Park and was among very few jeeps, so our wildlife sightings felt exclusive and magical.
We can time your visit to give you the best chance of spotting the elusive Bengal tigers as possible, as well as leopards, sloth bears and beautiful birds like bright bee-eaters and hornbills.
Experience wildlife firsthand
Intricate Handicrafts
Artisanal crafts are aplenty in Rajasthan: from the vibrant tie-dye textiles (fashioned into sarees and turbans) and iconic hand block printing (on cotton clothing and bags and so on) to pottery, metalwork, leatherwork and more. While all lovely, people from all over the world have been cottoning on to their beauty.
Again, Madhya Pradesh has its own forms of these. I particularly liked the Maheshwari sarees (which are hand-loomed by locals to this day and come in a spectrum of tasteful colours) and the beaded Zardozi purses (nicknamed ‘Bhopali Batuas’) in Bhopal, which keep the legacy of Nawabi culture and the powerful female rulers alive.
Get a feel for Maheshwari crafts and more
Fabulous food
It goes without saying that India is known for its food and you’re spoilt for choice in Rajasthan: right the way from fine dining restaurants like Indian Accent in Delhi to streetfood stalls found on practically every corner of its cities.
Madhya Pradesh has dishes to rival those of Rajasthan from succulent Bhopali Gosht Korma to aromatic Indori Poha. And, Lucknow – a hop, skip and a jump from Madhya Pradesh – has a fantastic food scene.
I went on an evening culinary walk here, which was a real highlight of our trip. Not only did I get swept up in the hustle and bustle of the city but I dug into delicious food: from tasting the best chicken tikka of my life (seriously!) and a perfectly seasoned biryani at Mubeen’s to taking a seat at the foodie institution, Tunday Kababi, to try their melt-in-your-mouth meat patties packed with 160 spices.
And the grand finale: a rich, slow-cooked stew (nihara) accompanied by warm, fresh-out-the oven kulcha bread (a pillow-soft naan with chewy, almost sourdough, centre and flaky buttery crust). Heavenly!
(Don’t worry, if you’re a veggie, our guides will order meat-free delicacies for you).
It’s worth noting that I also dined in more luxurious settings during my time in Lucknow, too. While it’s often more fun to dine outside of hotels, I was very impressed by the main restaurant at Saraca Lucknow, where I ate the most amazing Lahori Paneer dish.
Dig into these delicacies in Lucknow
So, if you’re a curious traveller eager to explore India’s riches without elbowing through tourist crowds, Madhya Pradesh is calling your name. As I’m sure you can tell(!), I can’t recommend holidaying here enough.
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Augusta Falconer
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