Rural Rajasthan: 6 Retreats That Make the Trip

One of our mottos at Experience Travel Group is that India is best when you slow right down and give it time to breathe. Nowhere proves this as well as Rajasthan.

With so many palaces and cultural cities to choose from, most people can’t resist packing in as much as possible into a single trip. However, a poorly planned route can quickly become a whirlwind of tick-list sightseeing, hotel check-ins, and long drives, leaving you more burnt out than inspired.

For this reason, we always carve out time to experience another side of Rajasthan: its rural reaches. It’s in these pockets that you get the space to unwind among local villagers and goat herders, breathe fresher air, and find genuine relief from the urban frenzy.  

Our India Specialists’ latest research trip only reinforced what we’ve long believed: these stops aren’t simply a ‘nice to have’ in a Rajasthan itinerary, they’re often what make it. These were Chione and Zoe’s favourites, all worth having on your radar.

1. Sariska Lodge

This sanctuary of a lodge is a new addition to the region and a great, under-the-radar alternative to the usual Rajasthan tiger circuits. Ranthambore might get all the international buzz, but Sariska is far more tranquil. With a strict limit of just five jeeps in the park at once, the entire energy changes, and our wildlife encounters felt incredibly personal and exclusive.

The forested reserve is just five minutes away, where conservation efforts have happily boosted the tiger population, meaning there’s a real chance of spotting cubs at play. On our jeep safari, our naturalist deftly pointed out a pair of leopard cub ears peeking from the top of boulders, alongside strutting peacocks and an eagle soaring overhead. The birdlife throughout the stay was another highlight; Zoe kept a running log of everything from drongos, bulbuls, and bee-eaters to a brilliant yellow oriole.

You can also explore the lodge’s immediate surroundings by following goat tracks through the countryside on foot, riding Marwari horses along old Aravalli trails, or simply sipping a sundowner as you watch the light fade over a nearby lake.

There’s a high-end, intimate feel to the lodge, which has just eleven spacious suites (some with private pools.) The sleek design is all earthy tones, rattan, and skylights, with a swing on the patio, which quickly became Zoe’s go-to birdwatching spot. We got a lovely sense of local life here thanks to a nearby village, and caught the echo of wedding celebrations in the evening. All in all, we’d recommend staying here before the rest of the world catches on.

2. Ranvas Nagaur

Ranvas sprawls across a series of beautifully restored havelis within Nagaur Fort, off the typical tourist trail. The arrival itself is impressive. As we drove in, the sheer scale of the fort hit us, and the moment we stepped out of the car, we realised we had the entire place to ourselves.

Another joy was exploring the fort long after it closed to the public. Our guide led us on a private evening tour, taking us deep into sections of the museum usually kept under lock and key, which offered a rare window into the fort’s history. Along the way, we paused to take in the little details: the original aqueduct system running through the grounds, now blanketed in lily pads, and the striking contrast of red sandstone against the lush greenery.

Back within the hotel, it also felt very private and peaceful. Each room has its own patio and daybed for some R&R, and the pool merges so naturally within the fort architecture you barely register its presence (the perfect place to settle in with a good book as kites circle above.)

Their old stables still have camels and horses, and there’s a local bazaar a short walk away for a bit of local life. What stayed with us most, though, was the feeling of being somewhere so extraordinary in absolute solitude.

3. Shahpura Bagh

Spread across forty-five acres with not one, but two lakes, Shahpura Bagh is family-run idyll. Our drive from Jaipur set the tone, we wound past a Jain temple and down dusty roads that were quintessentially Rajasthan: passing cattle farmers in vivid turbans walking by, hay trucks the size of houses and even goats being transported on the backs of motorbikes.

Originally established in 1630 by the younger brother of the Maharaja of Udaipur, Shahpura has been in the same family for eighteen generations, and that’s unmistakable to this day. The general manager was warm and hands-on, joining us at six in the morning for a birdwatching walk down to one of the lakes. He helped us spot pied kingfishers, flameback woodpeckers, coppersmith barbets and egrets. We also loved climbing the turret of 450-year-old Dhikola Fort at dusk. It’s abandoned now and belongs to the bats(!), but the views from the top were exceptional, with the rural landscape stretching all the way out to the horizon.

The rest of our stay drifted by with ease. There’s a gorgeous pool to unwind by, with fabric canopies billowing in the breeze and misting spray taking the edge off the afternoon heat, croquet on the lawn, and many al fresco dining spots dotted all around. We’d highly recommend opting for one of the Villa Suites, they’re tucked away from the main house by the pool, and felt noticeably more secluded and serene, with vast light-filled bathrooms and space to spread out.

This retreat also takes guests on guided walks to the neighbouring Dhikhola Village; unhurried, unscripted, and a lovely way to meet locals and see traditional crafts. The family’s charitable trust has supported the surrounding community for years and years, so there’s a real sense that your visit contributes to their world.

(ETG Co-Founder, Sam, met the owners to hear their family story and caught it on camera; watch the video here).

4. Mharo Khet Farm

Mharo Khet Farm is another new property, and noticeably different from anything else on this route, since the owners made the decision to move away from the restored fort aesthetic that dominates so much of Rajasthan’s accommodation. With forty acres of orchards, fields and organic farmland to wander, it’s easy to settle into a relaxed rhythm.

Their farm-to-table restaurant has been open for some time but the modern cottages are a fresh addition: floor-to-ceiling windows, generous beds and sitting areas looking out over the farm and open grassland beyond.

The tasting menu here is entirely vegetarian, with the chef introducing each course as it arrives; all of it plucked straight from the surrounding fields. The jackfruit curry was genuinely among the best things we ate on the whole trip, and we’re still dreaming of the delicious dhaals.

We slowed down properly afterwards: we were treated to a head massage under the shade of a tree, and their weaving workshop was more absorbing than we initially expected.

5. Bundi Vilas

Another genuine heritage hotel, Bundi Vilas is found halfway between Jaipur and Udaipur, right against the rampart walls of Bundi Garh Palace, which rise majestically above the town. The arrival here was equally impressive: driving down the elevated road overlooking the whole town and under the original 40ft stone archway is a proper entrance.

The property is 300 years old, so the rooms are full of history and beautifully furnished but also clean and well-kept. One thing to flag: there are a lot of steps, so it isn’t the right fit for anyone with mobility concerns. Dinner on the rooftop terrace, with the towering palace illuminated as the backdrop, was definitely one of the most atmospheric meals of our entire trip. The menu was entirely vegetarian and excellent.

We happily strolled through the local market and visited a few stepwells with our guide, and what struck us most was how natural everything felt, with nothing set up for tourists. We waved to smiley kids, chatted with street food vendors, and simply took in local life unfolding around us. Exactly how we like it.

6. RAAS Chhatrasagar

For Zoe, this was the standout stop of the trip, and if you have even a passing interest in birds, we suspect it will be yours too.

Every tented room overlooks the lake with verandas to be out in the elements, and inside, there are beautifully embroidered bird motifs on the textiles. There is even a bath positioned to look directly out over the water. At sunset we took a boat out onto the lake and caught glimpses of osprey, white-throated kingfisher, swamp hens and darters.

We then headed for dinner with a menu that extended beyond traditional Rajasthani dishes, which we appreciated after several days of remarkable but rich regional cooking. At night, the rustle of reeds and the sound of the water nearby lulls you to sleep and there are skylights to stargaze through. We loved waking up to the sunrise over the lake before spotting kingfishers at breakfast.

Our village visit was fun, too: we stopped at a school full of enthusiastic children of all ages, watched ladies rolling rotis for lunch, admired an 8th-century temple, and were invited into a farmer’s house to meet his baby goats. It’s comfortable, modern and completely absorbed in its setting, so if you’re a keen birder, we couldn’t recommend this one more.