by Lynsey Brett

How to Ride the Ella Odyssey Train

– and Why It’s More Than Just a Pretty Journey

You’ve probably seen the pictures: tea-covered hills, waterfalls tumbling past the windows, and a charming little train chugging across the Nine Arches Bridge like something out of a Wes Anderson film. Welcome to the Ella Odyssey – Sri Lanka’s newest contender for the world’s most scenic rail ride.

But it’s not just about the views (though, fair warning, they are ridiculous). This isn’t a standalone bucket-list activity. It’s the sort of experience that works best when it fits effortlessly into your wider trip – the highlight between hill towns, not the headline act.

2026 service notice: The Ella Odyssey runs Thursday and Saturday (Colombo → Badulla) and Friday and Sunday (Badulla → Colombo). Schedules are subject to change due to ongoing disruptions to the hill country line. We recommend reconfirming with your ETG specialist before travel.

What is the Ella Odyssey Train?

The Ella Odyssey is a special tourist train in Sri Lanka that runs from Colombo to Badulla, passing through the country’s most beautiful Hill Country scenery. It’s slow (intentionally), comfortable (mostly), and built for travellers who care more about what’s outside the window than what’s in the minibar.

Launched in 2022 by Sri Lankan Railways
Follows the famous Colombo–Badulla line, but stops at iconic viewpoints
Tourist-friendly seating, bigger windows, and a bit more breathing room

It’s not exactly luxury, but it’s a world away from jostling elbows on a crowded commuter train.

Highlights Along the Route

The Ella Odyssey route covers Sri Lanka’s greatest scenic hits. It’s a greatest-hits album of railway views, all stitched into a single, meandering track.

Key highlights include:

Nine Arches Bridge – that iconic viaduct moment (yes, the train stops for photos)
Demodara Loop – a railway oddity where the track doubles back under itself
Tea Plantations – from Nanu Oya onwards, it’s green on green on green
Waterfalls – appearing suddenly and dramatically beside the train

There’s no need to hang out the door like a contortionist just to get a good shot.

Train Schedule & Best Sections to Ride

The Ella Odyssey runs from Colombo to Badulla, but not daily. In 2026 it typically operates on Thursdays and Saturdays (Colombo → Badulla) and Fridays and Sundays (Badulla → Colombo).

That said, Sri Lanka’s hill country rail line has experienced disruptions following extreme weather in late 2025 and early 2026, and services have at times been shortened or suspended at short notice. Always reconfirm schedules before you travel, either locally or through your travel specialist.

Best place to board: Kandy. You skip the early 5:30am start from Colombo, join the train mid-morning, and still catch the most dramatic scenery.

Best direction: Eastbound (Colombo → Badulla). The light is better and it follows the natural flow of most Sri Lanka itineraries through the hills.

Sweet spot: Kandy to Ella. This stretch has everything, tea plantations, cloud forest, mountain views, and the Nine Arches Bridge. It’s widely considered the most scenic section of any railway journey in Asia, and we’d agree.

The full journey from Colombo takes the best part of a day, which is a long time to be on a train however beautiful the views. We generally recommend focusing on this Kandy–Ella section; it keeps the experience immersive without tipping into exhausting.

Practical Tips for Riding

This is one of those experiences that feels effortless if it’s planned well. A few smart decisions make a world of difference.

Which class should you choose?

We recommend second class. The windows open, letting in fresh air and photo ops. It’s more immersive and just the right level of comfort.
First class has air-con and allocated seats, but the sealed windows mean you miss the smells, sounds, and breeze – all part of the ride.

What to pack:

Light jacket or scarf – it gets chilly at altitude
SPF – UV rays still sneak through the windows
Reusable water bottle
Snacks (there are sellers, but the selection’s hit-and-miss)
Power bank and camera
Headphones and hand sanitiser

You don’t need hiking boots or a picnic basket, but a little prep makes the experience all the richer.

How to book

Tickets for the Ella Odyssey can be booked through the Sri Lankan Railways website, though availability on operating days goes quickly, particularly for the Kandy to Ella section. We’d strongly recommend securing your seat before you travel rather than turning up and hoping.

If you’d prefer not to navigate the booking system yourself, your ETG specialist can arrange it as part of your wider itinerary, along with a chauffeur-guide waiting at the other end so you’re not wrestling luggage down a busy platform.

Ella Odyssey vs Standard Train

Feature	Ella Odyssey	Standard Train
Scenic Stops	✅ Yes – photo breaks at top spots	❌ No – passes through
Comfort	✅ Tourist-focused carriages	❌ Often packed and no reservations
Atmosphere	✅ Curated, slower, spacious	✅ Local, chaotic, charming
Schedule	❌ Thu & Sat (Colombo → Badulla), Fri & Sun (return) — reconfirm locally	✅ Runs more regularly

In 2023, we sent Adrian Bridge from The Telegraph to see if it lived up to the hype.

He called it “a wonderfully curated experience”, and came back with the kind of photos that make your phone jealous. Read his article here.

How to Include it in Your Trip

The Ella Odyssey is best experienced as part of a wider, tailor-made holiday. Think: a couple of days in a tea bungalow, a scenic train segment, and a guide waiting at the next station so you don’t have to lug your suitcase down the platform.

Great combinations:

Hatton – for scenic tea estates and tranquillity
Nuwara Eliya – old-world charm and cool air
Ella or Bandarawela – perfect for stretching your legs and soaking in the views

Itinerary snippet:
Guests might spend two nights near Hatton, ride the Ella Odyssey from Nanu Oya to Ella, then be whisked away by their chauffeur-guide to a family-run hotel tucked in the hills.

Discover laid-back holidays in Sri Lanka

Walk the Pekoe Trail

Want to go deeper than the train tracks? Add in the Pekoe Trail. This new long-distance walking route passes through the same scenery you see from the Ella Odyssey — but on foot, it’s a different kind of magic.

Route 16 (Ella to Demodara) – walk through tea fields, village paths and across the Nine Arches Bridge itself
Route 6 (near Hatton) – quieter, nature-filled, and perfect from Camellia Hills

Adding a day or two on the trail lets you connect with the landscape at a slower pace.

Read our Ultimate Guide to the Pekoe Trail

Sri Lanka Train + Walking Holiday

Want to combine tea estates, heritage hotels, epic trains and quiet trails? Try our Slow Travel, Tea & Trains with Teardrop Hotels holiday.

Train journeys along the coast and through the Hill Country
Beautiful stays at Nine Skies, Camellia Hills and more
Guided hikes on the Pekoe Trail
Visits to Galle Fort, Geoffrey Bawa’s gardens, waterfalls, and beyond

Explore the full itinerary

Special offer: Speak to a specialist to save up to £1,800 per person on this trip.

This is Sri Lanka the way it should be: slowly, thoughtfully, and with plenty of time to savour the view.

Is It Right for You?

✅ Go for it if you…

Love big views, small details, and slow travel
Want a genuinely memorable day that earns its place in the itinerary, not just a tick-box activity
Appreciate the value of a peaceful, scenic day

❌ Skip it if you…

Have a packed schedule with no wiggle room
Expect five-star service on every step
Hate the idea of trains running (slightly) behind time

Final Thoughts

The Ella Odyssey isn’t something you slot in last-minute. But if it fits into your trip, it adds a whole new layer of magic — a gentle, scenic, thoroughly Sri Lankan experience that feels both curated and authentic.

Curious how to weave the Ella Odyssey into your Sri Lanka holiday? We’ll help you do it seamlessly!